Tomales Bay: June 26 - July 6, 2008
A trip to Bodega and Tomales Bays was one that I had been considering for some time. The logistics presented a bit of a problem because I didn't want to be tied to a definite schedule and because working with tides and weather (especially for the entrance to Tomales Bay) demanded flexibility on my part. I thought I had found the right window earlier this summer, but then the weather deteriorated and I needed to look for another time. I found that time during an extended week just before the July 4 weekend.
Because I ended up taking over 600 photos, I will divide this cruise log into several separate pages, presented in chronologic order (and I promise not to include all 600 images).
To Drakes Bay and Bodega Bay
Bodega Harbor and Bodega Head
Entering Tomales Bay
Tomales Bay
The Return Trip
My general route is shown below on Chart 18640. I stayed the 1st and 10th nights in Richardson Bay; the 2nd and 9th in Drakes Bay; the 3rd and 8th at Spud Point Marina in Bodega Harbor; the 4th, 5th and 7th nights at White Gulch in Tomales Bay; and the 6th just north of Sacramento Landing in Tomales Bay. Because I had beam or following breezes most of the time, my actual route was very close to that depicted below (except for while sailing NW within Tomales and Bodega Bays). Outbound, I passed through the Bonita Channel just outside the Gate and on my return I avoided the worst of Fourfathom Bank and uncertain conditions in the Bonita Channel by sailing to the deep water shipping channel and then turning in toward the Gate.
All considered, this was a relatively easy trip even though going north during the summer can sometimes be a real challenge. I experienced winds to 30 knots (at anchor in Drakes Bay on my return), fog and mist on most days through late morning, sunny afternoons, and a return of the fog and mist by dark. The northbound trip was in light air from the south while the return trip saw west winds generally at 10 to 15 knots during the day...up to 20 as I rounded Point Reyes to Drakes Bay on my return trip. Sea conditions were moderate with mixed swell generally NW to W at 2-4 feet and S 2 feet. I sailed during a period of spring tides with negative low tides to -1.8 feet and high tides as great as 7.1 feet at the Gate.
Day 1: As noted above, I started my trip with a short cross-bay sail to Richardson Bay. I did this for a couple of reasons. First, I enjoy Richardson Bay and simply take advantage of opportunities to sail into this Bay and watch the happenings at this Sausalito anchorage. My second reason is a bit more practical. In the past, whenever I found myself trying to head out the Gate, I always felt I was literally racing against time and tide. On several occasions I was late with provisioning or other boat chores and simply lost the race. That forced me to sail against a flood current or simply leave at a later hour than I had planned. By making Richardson Bay my first destination I can be as late as I want in my preparations and still make it across the bay for a morning departure...even if I have to head to Richardson Bay after sunset. And by leaving from Richardson Bay, I can be out the Gate in a relatively short time and make good progress up or down the coast on my first real day out.
Day 2: On this trip, Friday morning ended up being thick with fog. Leaving the Gate turned into an exercise of diligence and careful navigation. I listened to Vessel Traffic Service to be aware of large vessel traffic and then carefully headed for my Lime Point GPS waypoint. Shortly after passing under the Golden Gate bridge, a large motor yacht passed me. His horns were deafening, and it was reassuring both to have him lead the way and to have his audible signal ahead of me to confirm my direction and relative position. In addition to Lime Point, I have GPS waypoints set for just off Point Diablo and Point Bonita so my passage to the entrance of the Bonita Channel, while clouded with fog and mist, was relatively straight forward. As can be seen on chart 18649 below, by sailing close to the three points (Lime Point, Point Diablo, and Point Bonita) my route is north of the shipping lanes and even in very dense fog, I can usually see the shore to mark my progress; if the fog is too thick to see shore, a close watch of my depth instrument serves a similar purpose of confirming position.
After passing Point Bonita I headed north through the Bonita Channel. This is not always advisable or possible, but on this morning the swell was modest, I was leaving on slack water, and it provided a path of quick separation from the main shipping lane. The channel is well marked and I have both the G"3" and R"2" buoys marked with waypoints.
After passing through the Bonita Channel, the rest of the trip simply took me outside of the Duxbury Reef buoy G"1DR" and then on to Drakes Bay. I was able to sail only part of this trip. The breeze was light from the S and SW and a mixed S and NW swell made it difficult to keep the sails filled and Libations moving.
I arrived at Drakes Bay with some uncertainty about how much protection I would find from the growing S swell. The wind had shifted slightly to SSE and I was concerned that the anchorage would grow progressively uncomfortable as the evening turned to night. But I tucked Libations in between the Coast Guard "DB" buoy and the old fishing pier and found my stay quite acceptable.
View of the old fishing pier from Libations at anchor in Drakes Bay.
Only one other vessel was anchored at Drakes Bay on this gloomy afternoon. However, well after dark a fishing vessel dropped anchor SE of the "DB" buoy; he was gone again before sunrise.
And even though it was cloudy and cool, I still found it a pleasure to sit in the cockpit at the end of the day (still suited up in foul weather gear just to stay warm) with camera in hand watching the sea birds, harbor porpoise, and the shifting fog.
Day 3: Saturday morning arrived with about the same dose of fog, gloom, and light air that I had seen the previous evening.
I was able to sail away from my anchorage at Drakes Bay on a broad reach to the NE, and after cleaning things up a bit beat my way back to Chimney Rock and the G"1" buoy before easing off to reach along the south side of Point Reyes. I found the breezes to be a bit shifty close to Point Reyes, but generally the winds held from S and the reach along the south side of Point Reyes was quite enjoyable. With the Monitor working like a champ, I was able to sit back and relax. I spotted one whale but saw no others the entire day.
After I turned north at the western end of Point Reyes I saw several fishing boats hard at work. I didn't learn until after arriving at Bodega Harbor that June 30 was the last day of the crabbing season and the boats were out pulling in their traps. Here Gladnik already has quite a stack out of the water and onboard for the trip to summer storage. Apparently it was a little unusual for fishermen to still be setting and checking traps up through the end of June...but this year's moratorium on salmon fishing left them with no other viable fishing activity so the traps stayed in as long as possible.
I sailed for as long as possible on my northern trek along Tomales Point, but I was unsure of when Spud Point Marina closed for the day, so at 1342 and with time enough to allow arrival by 1700 I started the engine and motored my way into Bodega Harbor. (Note: I later learned that Spud Point Marina is staffed 24x7 so arrival at any time during the day or night is possible.)